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The steering geometry of a motorcycle affects it's handling. Altering
the preload front and rear can alter the feel of the bike and its ability
to turn by raising or lowering the back and front of the bike changes
the rake and trail speeding up or slowing down the steering. These improvements
would probably be minimal and would be offset by a wallowy or to bumpy
a ride. Suspension is designed to keep the wheels in contact with the
road without allowing the bumps and imperfections affect the motorcycle
and not to tune the frame geometry. Some bikes have ride height adjusters
fitted to the rear shocks and fewer have adjustable yolks these adjustments
allow you to adjust the bike to behave how you want. So before you alter
suspension settings such as damping, preload etc. the geometry should
be setup so that the bike works as you want it. If you are adjusting an
existing bike the easiest changes can be made to the rake and trail by
raising and lowering the front and back of the bike by dropping the forks
through the yolks for example. Wheelbase and offset usually need new parts
to make any significant changes but bikes like the 916 Ducati are adjustable
for ride height and fork offset and wheelbase.
What You Can Adjust
- REAR RIDE HEIGHT
- Increasing ride height reduces the rake at the steering head and
reduces the trail. On a Firestorm fitting a 6mm spacer under the rear
shock mounting would reduce the trail from 24.89 degrees to 24.28, the
trail from 97mm to 93.5mm and the wheelbase would be 1427mm. Which compares
with Foggys 95 race 916 at 24.5 degrees 100mm trail and a wheel base
of 1428mm
- FORK DECK HEIGHT
- Increasing the deck height (the amount the front forks stand above
the top yolk) also decreases the rake at the steering head and the trail
by similar amounts unfortunately ground clearance is reduced and care
need to be taken to make sure the forks don't hit the bottom yolk on
full compression. A maximum value of 10mm is the most that is possible
- FORK OFFSET
- Decreasing the fork offset only affects the trail so a 5mm decrease
in offset increases trail by 5mm (see the diagram above)and a
5mm increase in offset decreases the trail by 5mm.
- WHEELBASE
- You can shorten the wheelbase by shortening the chain or increasing
the number of teeth on the rear sprocket and moving the back wheel forwards
this will certainly make the bike more likely to wheelie and a little
easier to turn.

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GEOMETRY
- RAKE
- The angle of the forks raked back from vertical. It is possible to
have zero rake e.g. vertical forks but the bike is likely to steer like
a shopping trolley. The forks wouldn't work properly either with the
brakes on they would flex backwards instead of compressing and anything
but the smallest of bumps would have the same effect. The rake of the
forks directly effects the trail the smaller the angle the shorter the
trail and the larger the angle the larger the trail.
- TRAIL
- The difference between where the front tyre touches the floor and
where a line drawn through the steering head would touch the floor.
The amount of trail determines how easily the bike changes direction.
Lots of trail makes the bike stable and more effort is needed to change
direction bikes with large rake angles like Harleys are stable in a
straight line but need effort to turn because of the large trail. Less
trail makes bikes more unstable and more likely to tankslap but they
turn quickly so most racebikes have short trail values.
- WHEELBASE
- This is the distance measured between the front and rear wheel spindles.
A Long wheelbase makes a bike more stable less likely to wheelie and
slower to turn hence most drag bikes have longer wheelbase so the don't
flip over backwards or tankslap the rider to death. A short wheelbase
quickens steering but makes the bike more prone to wheelies and stoppies
so a compromise is reached where steering is quick but the power of
the bike can be used without to many wheelies.
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